The tie-resist dyed yarns are called Paagadu bandhu, chitki in the state of Andhra Pradesh, which is also called by their more commonly used Indonesian name Ikat.
In chitki or Ikat dyeing technique the bindings, which resist dye penetration, are applied to the threads in the required patterns and then the threads are dyed. The bindings are removed when dyeing is finished and the threads are ready to be woven into cloth. The distinct characteristic of ikat is the dyeing of patterns, by means of bindings, into the threads before the cloth is woven. Whereas in a tie- dye process, the fabric is woven first , resist bindings are then applied to the fabric which is then dyed.
Ikat weaving over a century, spread to the surronding areas of Hyderabad like Pochamapalli, Puttapaka, Gatuppal, Koyalagudem and Chautupal. Now each of these areas specialises in their own products like the silk saris of Pochampalli with single and double Ikat, Cotton and silk furnishing and shirting of Gatuppal, Chautupal and Koyalagudem.
Production Places: Pochampalli, Koyalagudem, Puttapaka, Gatuppal, Chautupal ( in Nalgonda District)
Chirala ( in Prakasam District)
Products : Sari, Dupatta, Stoles, Yardage, Furnishings, Bedcovers.
Tools : Maggam - loom , Panni - reed, Acchu - heald shaft, Chitkaasu - weft ikat frame, Thread and Rubber tubing.
Paagadu bandhu - yarn tie-resist dyeing